Coyaba

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Coyaba means 'paradise' in Jamaica's indigenous Arawak language, so you get the sense that this place is aiming high. Colourful décor, cheery staff and upbeat reggae create an atmosphere that's warm and uplifting. Service is generally efficient, although extraneous glasses and menus left on small tables make things rather cramped. Prices aren't as low as some of their studentland neighbours, but reflect the quality and ethical credentials of the imported and local ingredients on offer. Portions are generous but don't be tempted to skip starters. Jamaican national dish ackee and saltfish does its homeland proud, while coconut prawns balance sweetness with chilli sauce. Mains include a richly rib-sticking goat curry or hot jerk chicken, while 'catch of the day' fish dishes satisfy both ends of the spice spectrum. The accompanying mountain of rice and beans, plantain, sweet potato and salad adds up to hefty platefuls and straining stomachs. In the unlikely event of having room for them, the limited dessert options may disappoint. A dry chocolate sponge fails to complement the juicy rum-soaked raisins lurking within, while a banana cake is moist but just too dense. Overall though, such faults cast but a small cloud over this resolutely sunny Southside gem.

• High point: Satisfying soul food
• Low point: Disappointing desserts

The LIST Card F41

Coyaba

The following information has been provided by the restaurant.

Coyaba is an intimate, friendly and warm Jamaican restaurant located in Edinburgh's Southside, close to the University, 10 mins from the Royal Mile, 2 mins from the Queen's Hall, and on the corner of the Meadows. Coyaba means ‘heaven’ or ‘paradise’, which was the description that the Arawak Indians gave to the land now known as Jamaica.

We are a Rastafarian restaurant and believe that for food to nourish our bodies it must be prepared with love and care. Free- range goat and chicken, fresh vegetables and fish as fresh as we can find it are used to create mouth-watering and wholesome dishes. All of our deserts are baked using free-range eggs, honey and unrefined sugar. The Jamaican diet is very healthy as very little wheat and no dairy are used, so it is particularly suited to those wishing to follow a satisfying, allergy free, way of life. We have vegetarian and gluten-free options on our menu.

Jamaica’s food reflects its diverse cultural heritage, fusing elements of Indian, European and South East Asian cooking to create a unique and delicious cuisine. The flavours and tastes of spicy scotch bonnet chillis, mountain thyme, honey, lime and coconuts, tamarind, mangoes, bananas, pineapple, soursop, breadfruit, ackee, dasheen, callaloo, plantain, sweet potato, fish, chicken and goat are combined to create this colourful cooking.

Come and sample such delights as escoveitch fish, jerk chicken and our favourite curry goat. Served up with rice and peas, plaintain and Jamaican sweet potato, washed down with exotic cocktails, fine wines or a red stripe beer. Enjoy being soothed by the sweet sounds of reggae music and being served by our relaxed and attentive staff.

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