Salvo Caffè Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With the Cameo Cinema just blocks away, Salvo Caffè's Tollcross location is ideal for treating kids to a pre-movie knickerbocker glory or sticky chocolate sundae. The black, white and red themed décor is kitsch and cosy, with Marilyn Monroe the clear favourite among the Hollywood greats whose photos line the walls. Film buff and owner Salvatore Rosso presides as his clientele of local Italians and regulars of all ages pick from the please-all menu, or enjoy a cuppa and a chat as the radio burbles gently in the background. The menu adds an Italian/American spin to standard café favourites, so at midday there are omelettes, toasties and baked potatoes along with pizza, burgers and enchiladas. The early evenings bring steak with cream and peppercorns, chicken alla Salvo and calamari, all heartily garnished with sides of chips and salad. This is the kind of Italian retro diner where you can indulge a party of noisy children, while enjoying a snack and a good coffee yourself. Smoking a cigar from within his picture frame, Al Capone sees you off at the door with a knowing look, as if he too had spent an afternoon or two in this joint.

• High point: A good place for a party of messy, chocolate sundae-munching kids
• Low point: Easy on the eye, less easy on the plate