Villager

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The first in the mini-empire of style bars that now includes Dragonfly and the Voodoo Rooms, Villager is run by three style-conscious, fun-loving Edinburgh businessmen. The décor is a mix of graffiti stencil art, vintage trainers and trashy-chic details, which add a quirky, modern edge to the traditional George IV Bridge pub. Cocktails are Villager's speciality, and there's an excellent selection of Tiki classics or new twists such as the Rhubarb Gingertini or Champagne Mojito. Like the drinks, the food mixes up flavours, blending Asian, British and European influences. For lunch, there are big salads with chicken, chorizo and sweet potato crisps, platters of prawn tempura to share, spring rolls and beef quesadillas or heartier burgers and pasta dishes. At night, when the bar tends to pack out with students, loungers and regulars, there's a different dinner menu, which features colourful, savoury treats such as creamy prawn risotto or Malaysian curry. The raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake may be too sugary-sweet for some, but the vanilla ice-cream is a creamy delight loaded with butterscotch sauce. Careful attention is paid to presentation, with espresso arriving in tall, fat-bottomed glasses, and water served with refreshing cucumber, mint and melon balls.

• High point: Trendy but still relaxed and cheerful
• Low point: Dinner tables often need to be booked beforehand