Villager

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Villager was the bar which started the trend for pared-down cool with its retro stylings, vintage paraphernalia and stencil-graffiti art adorning the walls. These days other places have followed suit so it feels a little less unique and a little more worn-in. That it has nevertheless managed to stand the test of time deserves some recognition but the incessant references to lounging are perhaps beginning to feel a little dated. However, it still pulls in a crowd and weekends in particular are very busy. A ‘decadent drinks’ list features cocktails including a lychee and rose martini as well as a selection of ‘man drinks’ which utilise ingredients such as bourbon which are apparently more suited to … well, men. An extensive menu features interesting dishes such as vodka martini mussels or lemon and herb risotto topped with garlic buttered prawns, but it is the usual suspects that they manage best: a good home-made beef burger on toasted ciabatta or sausage with mash and gravy. All adequate bar fare but nothing above the norm.Tired dessert options include a warm but floppy chocolate fudge cake served with ice-cream.

• High point: Design has stood the test of time
• Low point: Wrap up warm if you want to visit the loo