Booly Mardy's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Just off the top end of Byres Road, Booly Mardy's is often overlooked in favour of grander surrounding destinations such as Òran Mór and Gong. Yet it's still popular for its extensive cocktail list – including eight different takes on the drink its name mimics (for trademark reasons) – which are concocted expertly by the friendly, black-clad staff. The dimly lit, dark-wood interior features some impressive patterned wallpaper and cut flowers on the tables, which are mostly designed for two and can crowd the room a little. If the weather is decent, there's also a small but attractive sitting area out front. The afternoon-only menu features a light but filling salad of gorgonzola cubes, thin slices of crisp pear and sweet, crunchy walnuts, and three hefty grilled lamb chops which, while delicious, are too much for one. Puddings feature a strawberry pavlova with a fresh-tasting sauce and a meringue that's just chewy enough. There's also a good-value soup and sandwich combo for £6.95, which could feature a thick, coriander-flecked red pepper soup teamed with roast beef and succulent sun-dried tomatoes on thick-cut brown bread.

• High point: The soup is a meal on its own
• Low point: Tables are wobbly on uneven slate floor