Dragon-i

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since opening opposite the Theatre Royal in 2003, Dragon-i has sat at the top table of Glasgow's Chinese restaurants, and owners Raymond and Susie Man are proud that their venture attempts something markedly different. With the décor, they've opted for a sophisticated palette of chocolate brown and burnt red, while Moët & Chandon champagne flutes twinkle in the white light, hinting that touches of class extend right through to the wine list. The cuisine actually fuses Chinese, Thai and Malay styles with (crucially) an emphasis on local ingredients. Nowhere is this clearer than in black pudding spring rolls, whose moist filling and flaky shell are brought together by a Thai chilli dip. The concise selection of main courses changes with the seasons. One might encounter crab claws jutting out from a regal looking plate of king prawns, queen scallops and princely slices of haddock in a sweet chilli sauce with a conspicuous garlic edge. Flavours can indeed be bold: fillet of beef is grilled, cut into long strips and tossed through a black bean and peppercorn sauce. The elegant presentation in a pastry basket is typical of the care that each dish is clearly given. Desserts make their presence felt, as well, with a super-rich chocolate fondue (for two) or, in a playful nod to yesteryear, with crème brûlée and its garnish – the once ubiquitous lychee.

• High point: Dishes you won't find anywhere else in town
• Low point: Combinations a bit too bold for some