The Local

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The quirky mix of ceiling lamps and a spherical white TV add a bit of character to the otherwise rectilinear furnishings of The Local: tables, chesterfields, empty picture frames and a free-standing bar on which the youthful clientele can rest their drinks. The food draws on the cuisines of America, Europe and Asia, with steaks and fish and chips to appease the less adventurous palate. The chilli in the nachos is spicy enough without overpowering the other ingredients, while the vegetable tempura is crisp on the outside and just meltingly soft inside. Of the mains, a roast chicken breast stuffed with brie and tomato and wrapped in prosciutto is filling (although the cheese slightly dominates the dish) and pad thai is a medley of tastes and textures with chicken, prawn, rice noodles, peanuts and bean sprouts. An interesting list of burgers includes lamb mince and haggis varieties. The dessert choice is limited, but the Belgian waffles are suitably light and crisp. Staff are keen to promote the two-course pre-theatre for £10.95, which includes a bottle of wine to share.

• High point: Two-for-one deals on burgers and sandwiches
• Low point: The tea could be nicer