Bar Gandolfi

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Housed in the loft above the much-loved Café Gandolfi, this warm, tiny bar eschews the cuisine and décor of its older sibling in favour of an identity all of its own. Quirky wooden furniture, steel beams and candlelight reflecting off battered cream tiles make for a certain rustic polish that lends itself well to casual dining. The bare bones have not been greatly altered since the venue's days as a cheesemarket, and while the space is rather dominated by a well-stocked bar – a popular perch for after-work drinkers – the open-plan design of the kitchen implies a focus on food. Most dishes reside in a Scottish comfort zone, with options such as macaroni cheese and mince and tatties. The smoked mackerel pâté is pleasingly simple: light and smooth, with crisp home-made oatcakes providing a delicious, nutty foil. The daily specials menu, on the other hand, often steers towards warmer climes with dishes such as a fragrant tagine of meltingly tender lamb. An extensive wine list features a by-the-glass section divided into groups such as 'floral and green' and 'sweeter than the rest' to help customers make the right match for their meal.

• High point: Scottish produce at its very best
• Low point: Limited space makes group dining problematic