Bar Gandolfi

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

This stylish little bar upstairs from Café Gandolfi is something of a hidden gem, and the management like to keep it that way by advertising mostly by word of mouth. There simply isn’t space for more than a handful of diners and drinkers, around the large carved wood bar and at the few quirky carved wood tables and chairs that hug the walls. Tucked away almost in the rafters of the building, the room's little natural light enters through skylights. Previously serviced by its own kitchen, the bar shares the same facilities and menu as downstairs, which means upscale Scottish bistro cuisine that’s elegant without being fussy. A starter of gorgeous black pudding from Macleod and Macleod of Stornoway is smartly presented on a pancake topped with a cluster of fried mushrooms. A special of ricotta-stuffed chicken breast wrapped in pancetta comes in a nest of cherry tomatoes, sage-roasted potatoes and green beans bustling with contrasting textures and flavours. Bar Gandolfi is nothing if not serious about its wine – the list includes an impressive 37 varieties served by the glass.

• High point: Food slightly plainer than prices would suggest
• Low point: Great wine list