Stack

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Formerly the sister operation to Broughton Street's Smoke Stack, Stack relaunched in 2006 as a lounge bar and grill, moving the emphasis from North American staples to brasserie dining. A large room through the back caters to larger groups and formal occasions, whereas the front room is relaxed, with a bar, fireplace and banquettes, in addition to tables and chairs arranged on an attractive stone floor. Staff bustle to and from the kitchen, albeit sometimes forgetting to cast their eye over waiting diners. The sheaf of menus attests to the venue's versatility. Set-price lunch and dinner cards are available during the week - the latter menu also being on offer on Friday afternoon, Saturday daytime and Sunday evening. A la carte is an option, too, including a cheaper Sunday lunch menu featuring many of the same dishes. To start, asparagus with lemon butter is crispy and sharp, and chicken liver pâté smooth and buttery. The main courses are where the cuisine really takes off: a rump steak stew with herb dumplings is rich with rosemary, and a red wine and bramble reduction is the ideal complement to tender venison. To finish, cheese and biscuits break the chocolate, toffee and ice-cream stranglehold on desserts.

• High point: Atmospheric décor veers from the baroque to the industrial
• Low point: Sticky toffee pudding arriving late and cold