Rhubarb

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Sited in an opulent 17th-century mansion in extensive grounds beneath Arthur’s seat, Prestonfield House Hotel and its restaurant, Rhubarb, is a far cry from the slice of suburbia nearby. Inside, layers of rich textiles and heavy prints combine in great colourful swathes with stunning original features. It’s anything but understated, though soft lighting and relaxed service lend an easy-going air of luxury. The restaurant caters for more than the inhabitants of the 23 rooms and, coping as it does with weddings, banquets and private dinners, is run with military precision. Imagination shows in a moreish starter of air-dried duck ham, rillettes and foie gras served with spiky shards of rhubarb. A more classic combination of pork cheek, black pudding and Granny Smith is no less delicious. Occasionally the kitchen falters a touch – a strangely tasteless tapenade accompanying a cod dish indicates that consistency is sometimes an issue. Still, its aristocratic setting and glamorous interior is a real draw, and with a well considered menu and generally excellent cooking, Rhubarb is a great choice for a special occasion.

• High point: The feeling of dining in a plush country house hotel, an easy taxi ride from the city centre
• Low point: Almost everything meets expectations… almost