Home Bistro

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £7.95 (set lunch)
   £15 (evening meal)
• House wine: £11.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Home sweet home charm, plus great ingredients
• Low point: Concept can only work on a sweet and small scale - so limited seats
• Food served: Tue-Fri noon-2pm, 6-10pm; Sat 6-10.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon
• Open since: 2003
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Here is a place that's delightfully homey in every way. Engineered in the same way that 1950s housewives dressed the dinner table and tied ribbons in their hair, Home Bistro creates a seemingly effortless and wholesome air, oozing with that 'home is where the heart is' charm. It has a gloriously kitschy style: the wallpaper is brilliantly retro, slippers by the fireplace are a quirky touch, and flying porcelain ducks climb the wall. Maître d' Roland Thomson's warm and welcoming attitude adds to the homecoming feeling, while chef Richard Logan's approach to light, fresh ingredients is the backbone of the home-style yet contemporary food philosophy. Get off to a fresh start with the goat's cheese cheesecake. It's presented like a perfect slice of normal cake, but, au contraire, it's savoury heaven. The haggis fritters are encrusted in oatcakes and drizzled in whisky sauce. For mains, expect dishes such as char-grilled chicken and mash with black pudding chunks, tagliatelle mixed with artichokes or smoked haddock mornay. Then there are home-made ice-creams and sweet, fruity cakes and tarts. Or in true retro-style, try the chocolate fondue for two with a plateful of goodies to dunk.