TaPaell'Ya

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Tucked onto the glamorous Radisson SAS hotel – but with a front door opening directly onto the pavement – TaPaell'Ya manages to feel like a standalone restaurant rather than a hotel dining room (although the high concentration of airline cabin crew and travelling business people does rather give the game away). A smart bar, serving tapas along with drinks, leads through to a restaurant decorated in rich reds and browns, with one wall dominated by a huge map of Spain's wine regions painted by hand onto glass. Wine is a high point here, with an interesting list covering some lesser known grapes and styles, around 14 of which are available by the glass (including cavas and sherries). Tapas are about half of the action on the menu. Although one can make a meal of classics such as patatas bravas and less expected delicacies such as tuna carpaccio, there's also the option of the standard starter and main course format. Large plates include steak, roast lamb and sea bream, while there's also a choice of five paellas which can be served in single helpings rather than the 'minimum two persons' portion that seems to be the norm elsewhere.

• High point: Interesting wines by the glass
• Low point: Silly name