Salsa

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £8 (lunch)
   £14 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Fresh fiery salsa
• Low point: Tortilla baskets get a bit soggy
• Food served: Sun-Thu noon-9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon-10.30pm
• Bar open: Sun-Thu noon-late; Fri/Sat noon-late
• Private dining: Up to 40 covers
• Open since: 2002
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Take away, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Slowly, in the candle-lit space, all becomes clear: a sombrero, cowhide patches, earthy walls with photographs of poised Mexicans checking that tortillas are properly folded. This cosy basement venture near the Clyde is an easy walk from the city centre across the suspension foot bridge, and succeeds in not succumbing to the stereotypes of the typical Mexican restaurant. It concentrates rather on creating a broader, laid-back South American ambience, even if the menu primarily reflects Mexican cuisine. The favourites are accomplished: Salsa's jalapeño poppers are mild chillis filled with smooth cream cheese and encrusted in crisp breadcrumb shells, for example. Strips of fillet steak are spiced and slowly braised with onions, kidney beans and tomatoes to form carnitas (little meats), served in a tortilla basket. The chicken fajitas sizzle in a concoction of tequila, lime and triple sec. The cerdo borracho, a Columbian favourite, is a stew of tender pork sweetened with sherry, almonds and apples and soured slightly with tequila. Deep-fried tortilla triangles coated in syrup may please the sweet-toothed, while others will appreciate the fluffier mango cheesecake. For £25 a head (minimum booking of ten), a salsa party menu is available, complete with dancing tuition and partners.