Heights

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Heights overlooks Edinburgh Castle from the top of the Apex Hotel, and the view alone makes this place well worth a visit. Recently renovated with a light wood-panelled back wall, gleaming white tablecloths and imaginative silver plates, it certainly gives a good first impression. Every table is positioned for diners to enjoy the view, though window tables are predictably in demand. The menu has a good selection of local produce, such as Arbroath smokies, organic cod or pithivier of Inverloch goat's cheese. The execution doesn't quite live up to the quality of ingredients, with some amateur touches such as piling rock salt on top of an otherwise very good duck confit terrine, or the over-cooked ratatouille that accompanies a fillet of sea bass. That aside, the focus here is on the meat and fish: a medium-rare rump of lamb is cooked to perfection and sits comfortably with roast root vegetables and a thyme jus. There is an excellent selection of Scottish cheeses on offer, including Clava brie and Strathdon blue, as well some classic desserts such as crème brûlée and pannacotta for those with a sweet tooth. The clientele tends to be mainly hotel guests, but Heights is making a good stab at competing with some of the more established local restaurants.

• High point: The amazing view of Edinburgh Castle
• Low point: Poorly cooked veggies need more attention