Zizzi

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Zizzi's three Edinburgh locations near cinemas and theatres hint at the transient nature of most of their diners. However, it would be wrong to write these stylish restaurants off as a quick stopping-off point for food before the latest blockbuster or stage show. They also attract a loyal group of regular diners who can kick back and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. The menu offers a broad range of classic Italian dishes with starters such as heaped bruschetta Genovese or rocket salad with prosciutto ham that sets the tone for a meal that is unlikely to win any awards for originality but is well presented, slickly served fare. There is also a wide range of well-proportioned pizzas. Alternatively, pastas dishes could include strozzapretti pesto rosso – a heavy mix of chicken in red pesto sauce and crème fraiche served with al dente pasta shapes – or a risotto di pollo e prosciutto – chicken breasts on a bed of rice For dessert, it's worth waiting the extra 15 minutes for mela croccante, apple and Amaretto crumble or, if time is short, you can't go wrong with a zesty torta limone followed by a swift espresso that will set you up nicely for the evening.

• High point: Consistently good food and slick service
• Low point: Not always quick to answer the phone