Monachyle Mhor (Mhor Hotel)

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

'Do you have a vision of what you would like to drink?' enquires the young Canadian waiter. It's a 'yes but, no but' situation. The hotel is the full stop at the end of six miles of single-track road along Loch Voil, and, although a glass of wine would be perfect after such a drive, the very thought of the return journey banishes any possibility of alcohol. It's a pity, but the vision from the dining room window more than makes up for such a minor disappointment. Tom Lewis is the chef/patron and this stylish gem of a hotel is clearly his lifestyle ambition. People really do come from miles around, and, after a breathtaking walk, can settle in for convivial lunch or dinner. Local beef and game are the foundations of the menu, but with a twist here and there. Guinea fowl is accompanied by pak-choi and butternut squash, and fillet of lythe comes with Puy lentils, chorizo and Scottish sea kale. The Monachyle pheasant and mallard duck terrine is a spicy, but tender, mix of game, boosted by pistachio nuts. Desserts also benefit from some enticing flavour mixes; the Galliano-scented dark chocolate parfait is, like the entire enterprise, perfect.

• High point: Heavenly food in an enthralling place
• Low point: Booking a room and staying forever is going to mess up your diary