Amalfi Pizzeria

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

In the perfect spot for a bite to eat before the flicks or after the shops, Amalfi has transformed over the past few years from an old-fashioned Italian café to an inviting, upmarket diner. One narrow room, the glass frontage and visible kitchen lend it an open aspect, while dark red walls and fairy lights above provide a cosy, softly lit atmosphere. Tables look small but have more than sufficient elbow room even when the plates are down. Only house wines are available by the glass – stretch to a bottle and there are several far more interesting options. The menu is traditional and delivered in large portions. A starter of fresh calamari sautéed in garlic appeals to the eye as much as the palate, arranged on crostini with a lightly dressed salad garnish. Potato skins baked with ham and mozzarella are equally pretty on the plate but rather lacking in flavour. An authentically charred base is the highlight of their tasty stone-baked pizzas, although more restraint with the cheese would be preferable. Home-made tiramisu is top pick for afters.

• High point: Charming staff, powerful coffee
• Low point: Cheese – you CAN have too much