Barbarossa

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

This family-run business formed in 2001 has had several hitlist recommendations over the years, and it’s apparent Barbarossa is not content standing still. During the past 12 months Enzo and Elizabeth Longo have overseen extensive renovation works on their large restaurant, creating an enticing new wine bar area and pretty conservatory known as ‘the sun room’. These spaces are in addition to the existing fine dining restaurant positioned on three levels, and a handsome function room lined with many choice bottles of wine collected by the owners–a passion that has seen the wine list grow to over 200 bottles. Each area has been finished to the highest spec creating a versatile and desirable whole. Thankfully the food lives up to the surroundings. Fish goujons, a combo of salmon and white fish, are chunky, light, golden and crisp and the bar is raised on bolognese sauce by substituting beef with venison. Sirloin steaks are large, well-cooked and deliciously smoky. A dessert of chocolate parfait and caramelised pineapple is heavenly. The sun room offers Italian tapas, a weekly changing specials menu and Sunday brunch. Recent promotions include excellent value food deals and live piano music in the wine bar every Friday.

• High point: Well-appointed surroundings
• Low point: Soda and lime lacked fizz