Brutti Ma Buoni

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

With its long bar and tall walls filled with an assortment of colourful bottles, Brutti Ma Buoni has the air of a stylish Italian enoteca with a dash of urban Spain thrown in. Metallic tables, leather seating and cream and black walls set the chic mood and like any proper European outlet customers can dawdle at the bar, sample the wines or partake of the spaghettis, bruschetta, burgers, and extensive tapas-style small dishes. Food is prepared fresh and includes their signature Brutti bread – a rustic, ultra-thin pizza base with crisp burnt edges and a choice of lively toppings – which makes an ideal starter to share. From the ‘small dishes’ section, pollo picanti is a pile of juicy oven-baked chicken wings and thighs with spicy crispy skins, while the chorizo and bean stew has an authentically deep slow-cooked spicy sausage lightened by smooth creamy beans. Spanish tortilla comes as a hefty wedge, showing off its multi-layered seam of nicely seasoned potatoes, onions and peppers. Alert and friendly service and a pleasantly informal atmosphere help make Brutti Ma Buoni a hit with diners and dawdlers alike.

• High point: Lively tapas
• Low point: Limited wine list