Avoca

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This is a bar that knows exactly what it's doing when it comes to food. It's not attempting to be a bistro: it's emphatically a bar and loves being a bar. Taste is everything in this little relaxing snug; music and chat don't intrude on your dining and you've no danger of becoming a back-seat eater. The menu favours substance over style all the way. Even the salad is impressive: much more than limp lettuce covering a space on the plate, the rocket, lamb's lettuce and delicate red pepper combination easily surpasses any dull garnish. Small plates range from home-made soup to grilled flat mushroom with melted goat's cheese. Large plates take standard pub favourites and give them a fabulous fresh twist, from tender, flaky haddock and chunky chips to 8oz prime Scotch rump so subtly cooked that you won't be forced to reach into your handbag for the emergency steak knife. The desserts include such delights as sticky toffee pudding or chocolate brownies, both served with ice-cream. After the afters, push your plate to one side and relax as the glitter ball drops and slip into your big drinking trousers.

• High point: Land of the giant-sized portions
• Low point: There's a very strict cut-off point for food service

The LIST Card C19

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