Rafael's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Descending the stairs to Rafael's cosy basement restaurant feels a bit like stepping into a Stockbridge granny's charmingly over-stuffed parlour, happy in the anticipation of being well-fed and cosseted therein. The peach-hued interior is idiosyncratically accessorised with eclectic displays of trinkets, creating a homely ambience that's matched by genuinely attentive service. If the décor feels a little outdated, the food only benefits from chef-proprietor Rafael Torrubia's unswerving devotion to traditional values. No voguish fusion or experimental cuisine here – dishes on the daily-changing menu have earned their stripes with fresh, seasonal ingredients and classic techniques. Starters might include huevos al horno (baked eggs with smoky chorizo, Serrano ham and olives) or lamb's kidneys in velvety gravy. A talent for creating rich, flavoursome sauces is displayed in main course offerings such as stuffed guinea fowl with orange demi-glace, although a medley of coley and prawns in tarragon-infused cream would benefit from the omission of cold cherry tomatoes. Whilst Rafael ably demonstrates that there's more to Spanish cooking than tapas and tortilla, he also steps beyond his Andalucían roots when the menu warrants it. A delicate vanilla-flecked panacotta is a case in point, and a delightful conclusion to any meal.

• High point: Flavoursome ingredients are well-sourced and well-sauced
• Low point: Undercooked vegetable side dishes seem like an afterthought