Dusit

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Hearty Scottish produce and exotic Thai flavours may not make for the most obvious culinary marriage, but it's one that Dusit's skilled chefs consistently pull off with aplomb. All the usual favourites, such as intensely hot and sour tom yum soup, deftly seasoned stir-fries and rich curries, feature on the menu – some with the deliciously Scottish option of venison alongside the customary beef and chicken. Even good old sweet and sour chicken is transformed into gai dusit, a mouthwatering fusion of pineapple and chilli, topped with mango shallots and cashew nuts. It's also well worth splashing out on the range of delicious seafood starters and specialities. The menu's contemporary feel is reflected by the feel of the intimate restaurant, the walls of which are hung with work by Bangkok's most promising art students. A new private dining room downstairs houses a lovely round table that seats eight perfectly, making it ideal for a special occasion, but remember to book, because the loyal following of local diners often fill the restaurant during evenings and weekends. Reflecting the quality of its food, Dusit is one of Edinburgh's more expensive Thai restaurants, but the daily set lunch menu is a bargain as well as a treat.

• High point: Deliciously innovative dishes prepared with quality ingredients
• Low point: Booking is a must at the weekend