Dusit

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

On a street well stocked with good restaurants, Dusit holds its head high among the best. Superior glassware, napkins and china, a well-chosen, keenly priced wine list and the attractive, modern interior make it clear from the start that this is a restaurant with serious aspirations. Best of all, there is a kitchen here able to achieve them. English translations are a nice touch, making the dishes all the more enticing. Pretty Duck is indeed beautifully presented, while Fleeing Fish – a salad of impeccably fresh crispy sea bass, mango, lime, ginger and tamarind – is light, harmoniously elegant and gone all too quickly. The use of some Scottish ingredients such as venison and guinea fowl underscores both the skill and creativity of the kitchen. Richly flavoured venison combines comfortably with chilli and green peppercorns, while holy basil accentuates the slight sweetness of the meat. Service is formal without being stiff – gently correcting mispronunciations – and if it slightly lacks the attentiveness of some fine-dining restaurants, that's a minor quibble. Prices are fractionally higher than other Thai places, but then Dusit delivers creative cuisine of a standard that should shame some far pricier French and Scottish restaurants.

• High point: Enticing menu that tastes even better than it reads
• Low point: Hard surfaces in main dining area amplify background noise