Shapes Restaurant

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

The last thing you'd expect to find in the middle of Edinburgh's Sighthill Industrial estate is a sophisticated Victorian-style restaurant. Entering the less than salubrious looking green pre-fab-like building you'll gasp at the beautiful black and white chequered marble floor, leather seating, gilt-framed mirrors and stained-glass features that are interspersed with tall palms and peace lilies. Doubtless due to the locality, it is only open for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights, when, at around 9pm, diners are entertained by grand piano. It is worth booking as this is an experience unlike anything else in the city. Owner Ally Black is the proprietor of the neighbouring Shapes furniture store and auction house, and the restaurant acts as a showroom for the classic furniture, adding to the sense of luxury. Sumptuous ingredients make up a simple, traditional menu in keeping with the surroundings, such as a potato pancake with hot salmon smoked by local Michelin celeb Martin Wishart. Mains include a beautifully tender loin of lamb, Aberdeen Angus steak or a whole baked sea bass and, chocolate lovers should dive into the 70% coco-solid nemesis dessert, indulgently served with clotted cream. Service is friendly, though a little slow, but, overall, Shapes is not to be missed.

• High point: Classic opulence and a great atmosphere
• Low point: Make sure you've got transport - you don't want to be stuck here at midnight