Shapes Restaurant

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

Note: subsequent to this review Shapes have altered their food and drink offer. The is now open only at lunchtimes, serving soup, salads and daily hot dishes, as well as coffee and afternoon tea. An industrial estate in Sighthill is an unlikely setting for an opulent Victorian-style restaurant but that’s precisely what you get when you walk through the door at Shapes. Gilt-framed mirrors adorn the charcoal walls while Italian marble floors, leather seating and a baby grand piano nestling in the corner complete the look. The unusual setting is down to the fact that the restaurant is part of the Shapes Furniture and Auction business owned by Ally Black, which is installed in the premises of an adjoining garage and works canteen. Dinner is only served on Saturday nights. A fine-dining menu features dishes such as chicken liver parfait, tian of white crab meat or asparagus to start, while mains include traditional Perthshire venison, lamb and whole lobster served hot or cold. More casual fare is available at lunchtime from the bistro menu on weekdays: expect caesar salads, steak sandwiches and daily specials such as steak burgers accompanied by chips and home-made coleslaw. Round things off in style with homely, traditional desserts such as sticky toffee pudding, crème brûlée and chocolate nemesis.

• High point: Opulent surroundings
• Low point: The lunch menu lacks variety