David Bann

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The luscious David Bann's is the smartly dressed uncle of the vegetarian scene, striding forward with a sophisticated menu and without a hippy in sight. Its well-deserved reputation is based on the quality of its ingredients, its creativity and its seductive setting: all tasteful colours and flickering candles. The starters are substantial without being filling, as fresh ravioli, goat's cheese tartlets, salads and soup are all tempting, without threatening to overshadow the rest of the menu. Impressive main dishes with international influences drift in, from dosa to chilli via risotto and galettes, many of which are available as vegan options. The mushroom and tarragon crêpe is a divine medley of flavours, with the fresh beetroot in the side salad adding a perfect sweetness. Sides, such as sinfully good chunky chips, are alluring, though not strictly necessary as the portions are generous. The truly brave might manage a beautifully prepared dessert, such as the crispy caramel fruit basket which drips with warm, fresh fruit. Drinks are also vegetarian friendly, and the staff are knowledgeable about vegan options. A glass of Kelpie seaweed ale washes down the meal nicely – after all, it's as unusual and refreshing as the restaurant itself.

• High point: Fabulously inventive
• Low point: Vegans have limited dessert choice