Ruan Thai

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

If it weren't for the sign propped on the pavement of busy Cockburn Street, you might not even notice the restaurant tucked down Craig's Close. But venture through the door and you'll quickly realise that the only discreet thing about Ruan Thai is its location. In a celebration of Thai kitsch, the ceiling is festooned with greenery, goldfish tanks frame the bar, fairy lights twinkle in the windows and, beneath the glass tabletops, dried chillis and rice form bold patterns. The result may not be refined, but the welcoming atmosphere and sense of fun suits the city centre crowd of shoppers and tourists well. The menu is also more colourful than you might expect, with typical curries and stir-fries boosted by an interesting range of salads and seafood specialities. A generous plate of mixed starters includes deliciously sticky pork ribs and Ruan Thai's own kai pun oye – minced chicken char-grilled on a sugarcane stick. Duck breast topped with a hot and spicy kaproaw sauce comes beautifully seasoned, but lacking the eagerly anticipated chilli oomph. Syrup-soaked banana fritters are a satisfying way to end any meal, especially the set lunch, which offers exceptional value for such a central location.

• High point: Great central location
• Low point: Not enough chilli in some hot dishes