The Universal

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Flashier town centre bars may struggle to fill their sofas on an early week evening, but this little bar is buzzing pretty much every night. Hidden away on a side street, it can't attract much walk-up, so what's its secret? On two floors, bare brick walls, old-fashioned paned windows and friendly service generate a warmth lacking in many style bars. Upstairs is a laid-back lounge where they have regular live music; downstairs the hum of chat pervades the bar rather than DJ-tastic beats, as a mixed crowd enjoy bottles of wine with massive plates of excellent pub grub. Dishes are listed in a no-nonsense manner, such as 'mince & tatties' and 'macaroni' with no gushing descriptions. Few will be disappointed. The Cajun chicken is served in smoky and tender strips with a pile of chunky chips. For the ravenous, the beef enchiladas are packed with spicy chilli and cheese, topped with a great big dollop of sour cream. Desserts are indulgent; sticky toffee pudding does the business with a rich treacle taste. A good choice of veggie options and salads means that all are catered for. Maybe the clue to this gem's success is in the name.

• High point: Great atmosphere
• Low point: Gets busy - you might have to queue