The Dhabba

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This Merchant City establishment continues to consolidate its place among the best Indian restaurants in Glasgow. The open, airy venue is sleek and modern with bare wooden furnishings and minimal decorative embellishments, which encourages diners to pay attention to the exceptional north Indian cuisine. A dedication to authenticity means that pakora has no place here. But bharloan dhingri, a dish of succulent deep-fried mushrooms filled with paneer, or tenderly spiced lamb encased in a roti and fried, known as gosht kathi roll, are superior alternatives. There are traditional main courses including rogan josh, biryani and korma, but also tantalisingly atypical dishes, such as dhaniya gosht with chunks of lamb in a rich and fragrant sauce infused with coriander. The dum pukht dishes are slowly cooked in a chapati-sealed pot, resulting in truly delectable curries full of flavour and complexity. Murgh khusk purdah features pieces of marinated chicken with fresh green vegetables. Accompaniments also show a unique touch, from the unorthodox poppadums to cumin rice. The Dhabba consistently demonstrates a dedication to providing an exceptional dining experience. Even the slick staff are happy to rein in your order if you go too far – all too easy to do at this extraordinary restaurant.

• High point: Indian cuisine of the highest standard
• Low point: Dum pukht dishes not available at weekends