The Dhabba

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Opened in 2002 with chef Januna Datt Tewari, one-time personal cook to Indian prime ministers, The Dhabba was a breath of fresh air and Glasgow's introduction to authentic contemporary Indian cuisine. Tewari is still there, producing consistently fine food with fresh ingredients, winning numerous awards, including our best newcomer award in 2003 and hitlist status in every year since. The food is from northern India, making some dishes familiar, at least in name. Curry fans might be confused by the lack of pakora, a delicacy unknown in Mumbai, and while rogan josh and dhals are local favourites, here they are almost unrecognisable. Makhani dahl mixes kidney beans, black lentils, tomato and garlic in a delicately spiced and buttery sauce; rogan josh with slow cooked lamb on the bone provides a marrow-richness to a spicy massala, perfect with a fluffy, unleavened bhatura or roti. Slow cooking is much in favour with a choice of dum pukht sealed casserole dishes worth the extra wait. Vegetarians are exceptionally well catered for with 18 main courses making up around a third of the menu. Modelled on dhabbas -traditional roadside diners in Northern India-the simple and unpretentious design comprises chunky wooden furniture, large colourful murals of modern Indian street scenes and a wall of windows on to Candleriggs. The whole experience is enhanced by laid-back music compiled especially by a top lounge DJ in India and professional, motivated staff who know their food and are passionate about it.

• High point: Exceptional food
• Low point: No intimate corners