The Dhabba

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• What are these?

• House wine: £12 per bottle

• High point: Classy, well-balanced cooking
• Low point: No draught Indian beer
• Food served: Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 5-11pm; Sat/Sun 1-11pm
• Open since: 2002
• Also offers: Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Take away, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The Dhabba hits its fifth birthday near the top of its game. Sure, there are a few chipped mosaic tiles in the modern décor, but the dining room here remains a refreshing spot in which to enjoy north Indian cuisine. Although staff can handle large groups with aplomb, this is not a place for post-pubbing pig-outs. Meals are refined. The allotment of king prawns in koliwada jheenga is arguably parsimonious for the price, but the lemon and Indian spice marinade shines. Sharing a tandoori mushroom dish (mansouree dhingri) offers better value for money - many juicy, marinated fungi waft with charcoal aromas. From a good list of vegetarian options, the paneer is generally superb: not the common hard, plastic texture, but soft balls with the consistency of well-set cottage cheese. The meaty, subtly spiced and lentil-enriched gravy of the dhal palak gosht features tender, simmered chunks of lamb. It is a dish that demonstrates the complex flavouring of good Indian cuisine (rather than curries that mainly singe the tastebuds). It also illustrates why the Dhabba remains among the elite of sub-continental options in Glasgow.