Collage

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Tucked away inside the dramatic copper, glass and slate hulk of the design award-winning Radisson SAS building on Argyle Street, Collage is one of two Mediterranean-themed restaurants in the hotel atrium, alongside tapas bar TaPaell’Ya [see Spanish]. Low-lit and with an extensive collection of works by British pop artist Sir Peter Blake adorning the walls, it's stylish but not stuffy – a fact reinforced by paper tablecloths, simply worded menus and smiling, efficient service. Spanish, Italian and Greek dishes are served alongside Scottish favourites to create an eclectic and diverse spread. Starters include whole grilled shrimps, served heads, tails and all, with runny herb butter and aioli. The cream of butternut squash soup with chive crème fraîche needs liberal seasoning to spring to life, but pairs well with a complimentary selection of fresh bread and olives of the day, which arrive as soon as you're seated. Recommended from the mains is the spit-roast chicken: two chunky, succulent legs served drizzled in natural jus, on a bed of marinated vegetables and roast potatoes. Country-specific platters for each of the above listed nations can be ordered as a starter, main or intermediate, to share or eat on your own.

• High point: List of local suppliers on the menu
• Low point: Not enough jus on the chicken