Metropolitan

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Ascending the spiral staircase from the cocktail bar brings Metropolitan diners to a stylish and modern Merchant City brasserie. The dining area is split: opulent white leather banquettes and sultry lighting give a very grown-up feel in one spot, while the slick black leather seating and dark wood panelling in the space that looks out over the Merchant Square courtyard feels more vibrant and alive. The predominantly Scottish menu uses fresh, mostly seasonal ingredients from wood pigeon or caramelised pears (served with a bitter chocolate sauce) to sweet, plump seared scallops sitting on little mounds of creamy cauliflower purée. For main courses, expect dishes such as pheasant with smoked bacon and black cherry compote, or perhaps an exceptionally moist breast of chicken with creamed leaks surrounded by sweet honey carrots and tarragon jus. Sticky toffee pudding finishes things off nicely as the accompanying tart ginger ice-cream cuts through the rich, runny sauce. At weekends diners can enjoy the live pianist with an after-dinner digestive in the upstairs lounge.

• High point: Two different dining experiences
• Low point: A la carte menu is rather expensive