Spoon

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Minimalism and quality are the cornerstones of the Spoon philosophy, with white walls and pine tables making the interior bright and spacious. The menu's confident enough to avoid overload, although with each soup, salad, sandwich and hot dish more appetising than the last it can still be a tough choice. Sweet and earthy parsnip and lentil soup with plenty of bread on the side is chunky, thick, wholesome and delicious. For more substantial main courses Spoon's owner Richard Alexander really goes to town, rolling out restaurant-class dishes such as smoked trout with a lemon and parsley dressing and endive salad, or Chinese braised pork belly with ginger, soy and spring onion. Even a humble cheese and ham panini is lavished with care for flavour and ingredients that puts it in a toasted sandwich league all of its own. Lemon cake drizzled with slightly syrupy icing is light and airy and a joy from the first bite. Spoon may be a little on the quiet side at times, but that just makes it easier to concentrate on what's important – the really good food.

• High point: Quietly confident cooking
• Low point: Subdued atmosphere