La Scala d'Oro

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Up on the first floor of Tolbooth, Stirling's contemporary arts and music venue, La Scala d'Oro caters mostly to hungry gig-goers, but this Scottish-Italian fusion restaurant could easily hold its own with its convincing mix of the two cuisines. In contrast to the Tolbooth's contemporary edge with its steel, linear interior, the restaurant's décor is reminiscent of classic 90s trend, with the Italian style coming in the form of Michaelangelo prints in gaudy gold crackle-painted frames. Dedication to the Scottish-Italian fusion is illustrated through dishes such as carpaccio of Aberdeen Angus with parmesan shavings, and haggis ravioli served on a rosti of neeps and tatties. Some French influence also appears, including niçoise of Scottish salmon and quail eggs, and a Scottish beef sirloin with beurre maitre d'hotel. Venison with wild berries provides a straight-up Scottish dish, while penne with goat's cheese and courgettes flies the Italian flag. Finally, for the delicious dolci ending, out comes the dark chocolate panna cotta with Drambuie cream to end on a Scottish-Italian high.

• High point: A genuine mix of Scottish and Italian cuisines
• Low point: Could do with a touch of Milan style