Mariachi

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Mariachi has all the hallmarks of an archetypal Mexican restaurant. The Latin music is upbeat, the décor is loud and the tequila is strong, and, despite having capacity for up to 160 revellers, there's still plenty of space for conga lines and dancing the lambada. Set up for lively parties, this sizable restaurant is geared towards good-time eating. To get the party started, Mariachi's real margaritas, made with Blue Agave tequila, certainly deliver a kick, and the obligatory nachos will have you fighting for the last salsa-soaked tortilla chip. Not that you'll need to – the portions are enormous; even the starters will have you pining for a nap between courses. The Mexican-style stuffed peppers, for example, overflow with either vegetables or minced chilli beef, while the deep-fried king prawns in filo pastry are piled high enough for everyone to have a try. And there's no let-up when the mains come out. When the crackling hiss of the fajita hot plate dies away, you're confronted with a mass of food that would end any diet. Likewise, opt for a burrito and you'll be hard-pushed to squeeze in a dessert. The emphasis may not be on culinary subtly or innovation, but Mariachi has refined the art of having fun down to a T.

• High point: Portions that buckle your seat
• Low point: Trying to stand up