Siam Thani

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Loyal locals and regulars at the nearby Playhouse theatre know that, for a genuine taste of Thailand, there's no need to travel further than this unpretentious restaurant at the top of Broughton Street. Intricate wooden carvings and gold-laced wall hangings adorn the walls, while the scent of exotic spices drifts from the kitchen, giving the lively place a warm, relaxed atmosphere. Siam Thani's popularity must largely be due to the range of superior dishes cooked by head chef Kittitorn Kaowsri, who trained in Thailand before moving to Scotland. A luscious bowl of seafood tom kha soup delivers prawns, mussels and squid in a rich coconut cream broth infused with lemon-grass and chilli. For a fiery main course, opt for the 'spicy special' pad gra prao, which comprises tender slivers of beef stir-fried in oyster sauce, with only the flavour of basil left to temper the heat of a generous dose of red chillis. The long list of ice-cream desserts pales by comparison with the rest of the menu, but flip to the back to find mango with sticky rice and bananas steamed in coconut milk if the generous main courses haven't filled you up.

• High point: Generous portions of superior quality food
• Low point: Desserts are uninspiring compared with the rest of the menu