The Forest

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Rather like Doctor Who's Tardis, The Forest café's exterior gives no hint of the space to be found within. The large back room is a real jumble, full of comfy sofas, mismatched tables and chairs, and a worn game of Pictionary perching haphazardly atop a pile of books. This is no place for discreet muzak or polished furniture and generic artwork, and it's cheering to find that the city still has room for a few such idiosyncratic and quirky hang-outs. Staffed entirely by volunteers and with a long-standing Fair Trade commitment, the Forest turns out great vegetarian nosh at rock-bottom prices. The falafel meal includes couscous with roast vegetables, hummus, salad and pitta but the falafels are the star, each earthy mouthful being crumbly, spicy and moist. The salsa that accompanies tortilla chips is a little on the watery side but the garlicky hummus, which comes with piles of warm pitta, is a real bargain at only £1.80. There's never any pressure to leave; you can have lunch, a cup of tea, or bring a bottle of wine, and sit for as long as you like chatting with friends, working on a laptop, or merely curled up with a good book.

• High point: Seriously laid-back
• Low point: Not for the sweet-toothed city slicker