Loon Fung

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

Founded in 1971, this is Scotland's oldest Cantonese restaurant, renowned for its huge range of seafood and dim sum dishes. It's an expansive dining room opulently but comfortably decorated in red and gold with backlit ceiling panels of marauding dragons, and flat panel TVs with (silent) Chinese programming. Any disturbance to its hushed atmosphere comes from the numerous, attentive staff but you may hear some wild singing as you enter: the four private suites are equipped with state-of-the-art karaoke. There is a Chinese menu largely eaten by Chinese diners where options include jellyfish and fish cheeks in roast sauce, and a more Western menu with familiar stir-fries and crispy spring rolls. It's worth discovering some of the less familiar dishes – succulent whole crab baked in salt, pepper and fresh chilli, or tender squid and king prawn with ho fun noodles. The legendary dim sum menu is hugely popular with extended Chinese families especially on a Sunday afternoon. Among the choice of dumplings, the king prawn is as good as it's reputed to be though the more adventurous can opt for yam with duck feet or turnip mousse.

• High point: Fantastic seafood dishes
• Low point: Not much explanation of the Chinese menu