63 Tay Street Restaurant

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Perth’s dining scene has really been in the ascendancy in recent years with Graeme Pallister, chef patron at 63 Tay Street, at the forefront of the renaissance. After gaining experience in England he worked across Scotland before setting up his signature restaurant in his native Perthshire. He picked a prime spot just down by the banks of the lifeblood River Tay. Décor is as refined and understated as the solid stone building. His declared philosophy is ‘local, honest and simple’, but that slightly undersells Pallister. His sourcing is indeed impressively local and honest with Perthshire berries and mushrooms from Aviemore, not to mention lamb from Andrew Fairlie’s brother, but his food is more than simple. Oxtail and Stornoway black pudding comes laced with a duck egg and horseradish while the standout is sautéed local beef rib with crumbed oxtail, horseradish and potato gratin. The five-course dinner menu showcases his culinary skills, while the grill menu offers Aberdeen Angus fillet and ribeye. The wine list leans towards the New World, fitting in a sparkling restaurant that shows off the new face of Perth.