Chiang Mai

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With the hectic activity of Haymarket just outside the window, Chiang Mai has long been a welcome haven of South East Asian calm for locals, commuters and rugby fans alike. Watched over by portraits of the Thai royal family, the lofty restaurant is divided by a partition carved from dark wood, behind which sits a quirky little beach hut bar, its roof draped in greenery. This unassuming décor may not impress everyone, but Chiang Mai's welcoming staff, crowd-pleasing menu and great value set lunches have earned the restaurant a loyal following over the years. Instead of the usual mixed starters, try sharing the zingy tom yum soup, which is served in a heated clay 'hot pot' for two or more people and delivers plenty of succulent king prawns and fresh herb flavours. A main course of stir-fried pork in a red curry paste sauce scattered with fresh green peppercorns delivers a welcome punch of chilli alongside hints of kaffir lime leaves and aniseed-flavoured basil. The unusually large dessert menu boasts a colourful range of creatively presented ice-cream dishes, as well as more traditional fritters and banana steamed in coconut milk.

• High point: Quick and friendly service in a relaxed atmosphere
• Low point: Handy for rugby fans, so can be busy and rowdy after a match