The Sunflower Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

If Val Brunton ever takes a busman's holiday and cooks for friends at home, it would almost certainly be just like eating at the Sunflower. Her personal style pervades every aspect of her sunny little café, from the relaxed but on-the-ball service to the zesty flavours that characterise her cooking. Her menu is well served by her local butcher, baker and wine-merchant, and she has a magpie instinct for round-the-world inspiration plus a knack of lifting vegetarian dishes from poor relation status. The Sunflower's day begins with coffee and home-baking, then moves on to soups, warm deli sandwiches and a daily hot special. Dinner is served Thursday through Saturday, and starts early enough to suit pre-theatre diners heading for a show at the Eastgate. You might have a toasty fritter of sweet potato, feta and spring onion with a fragrant curry dip, followed by rack of lamb, juicily pink beneath its delicious wisp of sweet, crispy fat. To follow, perhaps a slice of buttery pastry filled with fig, honey and almond, or pear and pistachio, with a dinky jug of pouring cream on the side. Bright cooking, meticulous sourcing and an easy atmosphere make this wee café an all-round sunny experience.

• High point: Honest ingredients, feisty flavours
• Low point: Charge for tap water