Howies

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This excellent value restaurant chain is now an Edinburgh institution and deservedly so. There are four restaurants, conveniently situated in the four areas of the compass of central Edinburgh. Waterloo Place, in the east, has been recently renovated and now looks great. The Georgian building is a former convening room that was used as a society ballroom until the beginning of the 20th century, and the new look goes some way to recapturing this atmosphere. High ceilings, a huge sky-light, a deep-red back wall, comfortable leather seating and a large bay window area at the back make this ideal for parties and a popular location for wedding receptions – as is the Victoria Street establishment, which is located near the central registrar's office. This is another historic building, but with a quite different atmosphere – more trendy than elegant, with cosy white-washed stone walls, contemporary city artwork and an open hatch into the busy kitchen. The West End and Bruntsfield branches are also in unique buildings and definitely worth a visit for those trying to avoid the busier touristy areas. Each restaurant has a different menu, though all are along similar lines of good, staple Scottish ingredients. The chefs are to be commended for recently introducing more local and seasonal produce. Victoria Street's local free-range chicken served with brie and asparagus wrapped in Parma ham is devilishly good, especially as it comes with creamy Dauphinoise potatoes. Expect to find lots of traditional dishes, including haggis, venison, sea bass and Cullen skink. There are some pretty original and successful variations as well, including a deep-fried salmon fillet with chunky chips and home-made ketchup at Waterloo Place. On a first visit make sure you leave room for the infamous Howies' banoffee pie. Large groups can make these restaurants a bit noisy, but staff are very friendly and clearly enjoy the vibe.

• High point: Good value food in stylish and atmospheric settings
• Low point: The decibel levels can limit conversation