Sloans

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its long history and its wonderfully impressive interiors (including a grand mahogany staircase, an upstairs ballroom and a cosy snug bar), Sloans should be a Glasgow institution. It’s the kind of place that ought to be crammed full of people from all walks of life, that should be eulogised in guidebooks aimed at the foreign tourist trade as a ‘must-visit’ destination. That it has long fallen short of such ideals is not lost on the current management and, thankfully, plans to realise some of Sloans’ enormous potential are now being acted on. If these are successful Sloans may well be worth looking out for in 2009. The dining area, partially segregated from the downstairs bar, is charmingly simple and unspoilt, with black and white photographs of old Glasgow adorning the walls. It ought to be the kind of place that entices passers-by throughout the day with the promise of coffee and cake, or good, simple, inexpensive food. As it is, the food, whether it be soups and sandwiches or more substantial fare such as scotch pie, home-made burgers, or macaroni cheese with chips, is certainly inexpensive, but it only rarely rises in quality above standard pub fare. The service, however, is unremittingly friendly and helpful.

• High point: Good selection of beers on draught
• Low point: Plasma TV and games machine are completely out of place