Minsky's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Of the two restaurants within Glasgow's five-star city centre Hilton, the casual option is Minsky's. This self-styled 'New York-style brasserie' operates arguably more like a Midwestern-style massive buffet, offering a bewildering array of food. Wandering round, plate in hand, to recce the various choices takes a little while. Starters range from cold meats, salads, various seafood and soups to spring rolls, samosas or teriyaki beef. Fittingly enough, a few of the Scottish-influenced dishes stand out. Haggis is spicy and rich, while mussels in a mild and creamy white wine sauce taste fresh. Among the options intended as main courses, a traditional carvery roast is probably the most appealing. There are two vegetarian alternatives, as well as fish and pasta dishes and a selection of vegetables sides. Dessert can be a healthy fruit salad, any number of dainty crème brûlées, vanilla slices or chocolate mousse. Offering such a wide range means that there are no real specialties here, but the advantage of a smorgasbord is that diners can essentially eat as much as they want – or can.

• High point: Heaven for gluttons
• Low point: Some main course dishes are quite bland