Sannino Pizzeria

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

More than 20 years after it was established, this handsome pizzeria continues to lure customers into its underground chamber of dark wooden booths, chrome railings and Tiffany-style lamps. Regulars appreciate the reasonably priced set lunch and pre-theatre deals, both of which make Sannino's a busy place at these times. Experienced staff appear used to the buzz, seeming even to welcome it. There aren't many surprises on a menu that consists almost entirely of traditional pizzas and pasta dishes. The bruschetta Genovese takes the form of a slice of toasted white loaf that fills the plate and is thickly spread with tender sliced mushrooms in a deep red, intensely flavoured tomato sauce. The fusilli al salmone lacks equal richness, though the giant pile of pasta twirls might defeat even the hungriest diners. The pizzas come in ten and 16-inch sizes, with a choice of ten mainly meaty creations, such as the meatball and pepperoni-laden Americana. But you can create your own by picking from the range of toppings. Kids can also play chef at this family-friendly place that has a small children's menu.

• High point: Old-fashioned charm
• Low point: The large portions can be unnerving