The Magnum Restaurant & Bar

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With a decidedly masculine name, an imposing racing green exterior and jeroboams of port sitting proudly in the window, first impressions are that the Magnum might be slightly old-school. Appearances, however, can be deceptive, and new proprietor Chris Graham is shrinking its broad shoulders just enough to appeal to a more varied clientele. So, a tasteful makeover incorporating soft dark greys and understated artworks gives a plush, unstuffy intimacy, mirrored by the friendly and well-tuned service. The Scottish-hearted menu has also been given a revamp, welcoming cuisines from Europe and Asia, adding a bit of an edge to otherwise wholly classical dishes. To start, mussels in chardonnay and roast garlic cream are succulent with well defined flavours, while a carpaccio of venison is delicate to the point that the syrupy tomato and shallot relish alongside comes dangerously close to overshadowing it. A beautifully tender côte de boeuf is an attractive main course, even if the spring vegetable accompaniment is a little awry (parsnips, carrots and potatoes don't exactly scream spring in bloom), while a Franco-Asian take on duck, with an orange reduction and vegetable noodle stir fry is tasty, if a little dislocated geographically. The lack of focus certainly doesn't crop up in the desserts: pannacotta and sticky toffee pudding may be slightly unambitious sweets, but they know exactly what they're doing, and just how to do it.

• High point: Cheerful, charming, and not overpriced.
• Low point: Dishes sometimes a little imprecise