Santini Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Saddled with a reputation for being stylish but expensive, Santini – now a single venue created from the two that existed previously – has often failed to earn the attention it deserves for its food. The glass front of the dining room lends it a clinical edge but that is overcome by the warmth of the welcome and the discreet attention of the staff. Courgette filled with mozzarella, ham and Parmesan or grilled vegetables and goat's cheese set the tone for a flawless meal. Main courses comprise pasta, pizza or risotto – a vegetarian option with exquisitely buttery rice and truffle oil, laced with mushrooms, is one of the options. Or, for those big on meat, a saltimbocca with Parma ham, pecorino cheese, sage and Marsala accompanying the veal, which is served on a bed of spinach, is an equally well balanced combination, although side orders are extra. Desserts are a triumph, with the trio of pannacotta earning top marks for style when vanilla, strawberry and chocolate varieties are served with a wafer in the shape of a spoon. Santini is still not cheap – the wine list in particular takes is toll on the wallet – but it compares well to Edinburgh's other upmarket restaurants.

• High point: Attentive but unfussy service
• Low point: Overpriced wine