Santini Restaurant

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £11 (set lunch)
   £22 (evening meal)
• House wine: £17 per bottle

• High point: Buzzing atmosphere
• Low point: Astronomical mark-up on wine
• Food served: Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm; Sat 6.30-10.30pm. Closed Sun
• Bar open: Mon-Fri noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight; Sat 5pm-midnight. Closed Sun
• Open since: 2001
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The starkly modern building that houses Santini, sandwiched between the car park and rear reception entrance of the Sheraton Hotel, can at first sight feel cold and slightly clinical. Sharing its modern shell with one of Edinburgh's most luxurious spas, Santini has, in 2007, made some changes to its operation that are helping to make the experience feel more uplifting and indulgent. What was once two separate operations (Santini Restaurant and Santini Bis) is now one, helping to create a more cohesive, buzzing atmosphere. The menu has been revised and reworked under consultation from an imported Tuscan chef, and offers an ample selection of simple, well-executed dishes. Antipasto of cured Italian meats with pecorino cheese and olives is delightfully simple and plentiful. Fresh mussels and clams are served wading in a delicate white wine and parsley broth. A selection of pastas and pizzas is available, but it can be hard to resist the hearty and tender braised veal shank served with saffron risotto. Lighter fish dishes - such as herb-infused branzino served on top of garlicky spinach - are well-balanced and full of flavour. Big spenders can splash out on the bistecca alla fiorentian per due - a massive 1kg T-bone steak with cannellini beans for two persons. Keep the purse strings open if you want to enjoy wine with your dinner, as there are precious few options under £20. And a non-vintage Krug can relieve you of an astonishing £175 if you have a thirst for something swanky.