Mya

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Muted beige walls and sleek wooden chairs offer no hint of the colourful cultural influences at work in Mya's kitchen. The dual Thai and north Indian menu seems to have been borne of the idea that groups of potential diners struggle to agree on what to eat, rather than a natural affinity between the cuisines. However, both are skillfully cooked and spiced with a delicate touch, so no one should be disappointed. Sea bass tenga – a starter from the Indian menu – turns out to be a whole, moist fillet, subtly flavoured with a delicious sweet and sour lime, chilli and ginger dressing. Equally successful is the main course of Thai red curry, which smothers a generous serving of juicy king prawns with a good balance of chilli, creamy coconut and zesty lime leaf. The sheer size of the menu has the potential to confuse, though, with even the staff sometimes asking those who've ordered Thai meals if they'd like naan bread, so the more limited choice available on the great value set lunch and early dining menus will suit those who have trouble choosing as well as hurried workers from local offices.

• High point: A choice of skillfully spiced food that should be big enough to please everyone
• Low point: Lacks the cosy charm of many exclusively Thai restaurants